BOTANICAL DYES
2018 - ongoing
An on-going experiment in dyeing with natural materials as a way for me to learn more about plants. These swatches of fibre have been dyed with either purchased plant extracts or wildcrafted plants from coastal British Columbia.
COCHINEAL (DACTYLOPIUS COCCUS)
Source: extract, Maiwa Supply
Fibre (Left to Right): superwash wool, Icelandic wool, wool, silk, cotton
Mordant: alum (wool, silk), alum acetate (cotton)
Preparation:
- Ground up cochineal, 8% WOF. Simmered 1 hour. Added fibre to dye bath without straining.
- Simmered fibre in dye bath 1.5 hours.
- Iron added to hot dye and soaked 30 minutes.
- Baking soda + cream of tartar added to (seperate) pots and simmered 30 minutes.
Dye Only
Baking Soda Afterbath
Cream of Tartar Afterbath
Iron Afterbath
LAC (LACCIFER LACCA.)
Source: extract, Maiwa Supply
Fibre (Left to Right): wool, silk,.
Mordant: alum
Dye Only
Iron Afterbath
MADDER (RUBIA TINCTORUM)
Source: extract, Maiwa Supply
Fibre (Left to Right): wool, silk, cotton
Mordant: alum (wool, silk), alum acetate (cotton)
Dye Only
Iron Afterbath
MARIGOLD (TAGETES )
Source: crushed petals, Maiwa Supply
Fibre (Left to Right): wool, silk, cotton
Mordant: alum (wool, silk), alum acetate (cotton)
Dye Only
Dye Only
Iron Afterbath
RED ALDER (ALNUS RUBRA)
Source: wild-crafted
Fibre (Left to Right): superwash wool, Icelandic wool, wool, silk, cotton
Mordant: alum (wool, silk), alum acetate (cotton)
Preparation:
- Bark soaked for 3 weeks, then simmered in dye pot for 1 hour.
- Fabric simmered in dye bath 3 hours. Rested in dye bath 1 hour.
Dye Only
Baking Soda Afterbath
Cream of Tartar Afterbath
Iron Afterbath
RED ALDER (ALNUS RUBRA) + STAGHORN SUMAC (RHUS TYPHINA)
Source: wild-crafted
Fibre (Left to Right): superwash wool, wool, silk, cotton
Mordant: alum (wool, silk), alum acetate (cotton)
Preparation:
- Bark ground to saw dust, used 600% WOF.
- Bark simmered with sumac berries (600% WOF) and baking soda until dye bath reached PH8.
- Dye bath simmered 3 hours then strained.
- Divided dye into two pots, one with dye bath as is, and the second with iron at 16% WOF. Each pot simmered 1 hour.
Observations:
- Adding more baking soda did not affect the PH.
- Try using a more alkaline solution to try for a black dye.
- I'm not sure if the tannins from Sumac aided in the dark colour or if this was only due to the PH.
Dye Only
Iron Afterbath, 16% WOF
TANSY (TANACETUM VULGARE)
Source: wild-crafted
Fibre (Left to Right): superwash wool, Icelandic wool, wool, silk, cotton
Mordant: alum (wool, silk), alum acetate (cotton)
Dye Only
Baking Soda Afterbath
Iron Afterbath
Vinegar Afterbath